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--------------( the above is an advertisement )------------- 1) Downgrading From NTFS?
There's no simple way, alas, but it can be done. In a test I did here, an old copy of Partition Magic 7 could convert from NTFS back to FAT32, provided the NTFS disk is straightforward (not a compressed volume, or with other advanced attributes). So, a tool like PM--- at least, the old versions that could boot from a floppy--- might help. But if you really do need the whole drive to be FAT32, then the safest bet is probably a full backup (not an image); reformat the drive as FAT32, then restore or reinstall. http://google.com/search?q=convert+ntfs+fat A related question:
A one word answer? No. <g> Here are a few more words: A disk image captures *everything,* including the placement of every bit and byte on the hard drive. Restoring an image puts the disk and everything on it back in EXACTLY the same state and condition it was when the image was made--- same format, same order, same amount of fragmentation (or contiguousness), etc--- everything! That's why it's a great way to restore a munged PC: If you created an image when everything was set up right and working fine, you can restore that image and get everything back to that known-good state in a jiffy. But if you don't want everything back--- say, you don't want all the files, or don't want the format type, or don't want some of the software on the image--- then restoring the image is the wrong thing to do. Rather, you'd want a file-oriented backup; or a tool that will let you extract individual files from an image. Images are best for fast, powerful, all-in-one restores. File-oriented backups are best for selective, partial restores.
http://langa.com/backups/backups.htm Click to email this item to a
friend --- ( Your Clicks On Ad Links Help Keep The LangaList S.E. Free! ) --- "Fred: Thank you for providing
this service for a reasonable price. Your For only around $1 a month, As A Gift For Others: --------------( the above is an advertisement )-------------- 2) MS Office Update Problems
In an OEM setup like the one you describe, the setup files for installed software (including the OS) may be somewhere on the drive. So I suggest you thoroughly explore the hard drive, including any OEM/restore/recovery partitions. You may need to turn on the "show all files/hidden files" option in Windows Explorer, if it isn't already set. (See item #2 in http://www.informationweek.com/story/IWK20011204S0009 ) If you find the setup files, go back and re-run the Update and let it again ask you for the CD. Click OK, even though you don't have the CD. The update will try to load the nonexistent CD. Of course, it will fail, but then will present you with a dialog asking for the location of the CD or files. Browse to the location of the on-disk files you found earlier (or type in the full path) and let the Update process resume from there. It should work. If you can't find the setup files anywhere, you could try rolling the system back to a known-good state via a backup, image, System Restore, or similar tool. If that's not an option, you may be able to force Windows to forget that it's in the middle of an update: This'd take some scouring, but if you clean out all the Temp file areas ( http://langa.com/cleanup_bat.htm ); use MSConfig to disable any update-related "run at startup" items ( http://google.com/search?q=msconfig ); use Regedit to find and disable or delete any update-related in-process entries ( http://google.com/search?q=regedit ); etc.; you may be able to get things clean enough so that the update will start fresh using the "I don't have a CD" option. If *that* doesn't work, you could try using a borrowed Office setup CD if you can locate someone else with a Dell setup of the same vintage, using the same software versions. (I don't know for sure if this would work, but I'm running out of ideas, here. <g>) And if *that* doesn't work, then it may be time to consider switching to a different and less-restrictive office suite, such as the free, and very good, Open Office ( http://www.openoffice.org/ ). Click to email this item to a
friend 3) DeLorme, and MoreThe emails on mapping software and GPSes keeps pouring in--- I suspect Santa is going to have a sleigh-full of this stuff for LangaList readers:
Thanks, Marc and Jim. I've used DeLorme software in the past--- it's good, and worked fine going from GPS to the PC-based software. But like Microsoft S&T, it used only the generic NMEA format to communicate from the software back to a GPS, so you couldn't save a detailed route to a stand-alone GPS very well.
Thanks, Peter. I've heard good things about that, too. There also are European-specific tools such as "Route66" ( http://www.66.com/route66/homepage.php?cid=US ). Although it now covers the US and Canada, Route 66 software originally focused only on Europe, and was produced in Europe by Europeans---which gave me confidence in it when I used it to plot out routes across the Alps several years ago. ( http://google.com/search?as_q=alps&as_sitesearch=langa.com ) Nice to have several choice for routing software, no matter where you're planning to drive. (And BTW, in case you're wondering, yes, it's *that* Peter Norton. <g>) Click to email this item to a
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--------------( the above is an advertisement )------------- 4) Which GPS?A number of readers have asked which GPS I'm currently using. I didn't mention that because a choice of GPS gets into some very personal preferences. For example, many of the currently popular units have touchscreen interfaces, which make the units initially look sleek and cool. But I have an aversion to touchscreens on personal electronics: The screen takes a beating, and ends up looking like ^%$# after a while, with scratches, skin oils, and other debris and damage. Give me buttons, and a clear, clean screen, any day. Some people also love all-in-one devices--- you know, a combined phone, camera, mp3 player, GPS, and espresso machine. But multi-purpose units (at least, those with widely-disparate functions) often are a bundle of compromises. I'd rather have (say) a great phone, a separate great camera, and a separate great GPS rather than a unit that does all three functions in a so-so manner. That said, I'm not trying to be coy: I think the current
best general-purpose GPS is the Garmin Quest (not the Quest2, but the original
Quest).
http://www.garmin.com/products/quest/ It has a button-driven interface so you don't have to poke at
and smudge the screen to use it.
That's a "wow" for sure. But it's intended only for in-vehicle use (not portable), so it's not a walking-around unit. http://www.garmin.com/products/sp2730/ And with that, let's close the topic of mapping and GPS for a while--- we've covered it pretty well, I think! Click to email this item to a
friend 5) De-Cluttering Context Menus
First, let me point out an alternative: Highlight any file, hit F2, and you can then rename the file directly, without needing to call up a menu. But to answer your specific question: Indeed, some context menu items are handled by shell commands stored in the Registry, but others are controlled other ways. There also are differences depending on whether the item you're editing is a file, a desktop item, an icon.... PC Mag has a utility called "context edit," that would probably help, but they charge for the download (which seems really cheesy to me--- PC Mag isn't exactly a struggling shareware author...). But if you want it, it's here: http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,4149,9879,00.asp If you want a purely-shareware tool, System Workshop 2.3 contains a context menu editor. http://www.majorgeeks.com/download2012.html These manual methods are free, but take more work: PC World has limited free help: A generic manual (free) way is described here: And the free article "Hacking the Context Menu" goes into quite extensive
detail: Hope one of those does the trick for you! Click to email this item to a
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friend 7) Reader Rave Re: Recovery ToolThe item "Last-Ditch Data Recovery" ( http://langa.com/newsletters/2005/2005-12-05.htm#2 ) brought this enthusiastic reader recommendation: Fred: I have found and use a program called Getdataback for NTFS by Runtime Software http://www.runtime.org/ and it is fantastic. It has only failed once in more than 2 dozen attempts at recovering deleted files or even corrupted file systems as well as damaged hard drives (the time it failed was a completely failed hardware issue). We use the NTFS version, as that is what we have in our environment, but they make a version for FAT filing structures. The nice thing with them is they allow a download to try the software and allow you to see what can be recovered first. If it is what you want then purchase the program and that allows the data to be resurrected. Thanks, David NoakesThanks, David. Readers have had good results from other "Runtime" software too, and we discussed "GetDataBack" several years ago http://langa.com/newsletters/2003/2003-01-30.htm#9 . It seems to be a solid offering. It's nice when a commercial vendor offers a free version that will at least show you if the full version will solve your problem: It eliminates the "pay and pray" method of buying software in the hopes that it might work... <g> Click to email this item to a
friend 8) Still *Another* Code Load Success StoryAfter his site was listed in the last "Load The Code" section, this reader wrote:
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At Mike the Tek, Helpdesk ALBA Kuechen Marv's Music CompuTech Direct BWolfe.US web page ConcateNation The Law Offices of Alexander Henderson Celtic music and more... Deal Shooter Advantages Surfaces Click to email this item to a
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--------------( the above is an advertisement )------------- 9) Sluggish Spin-Up
Most PCs allow for power-saving settings in two separate and independent places: the Operating System and the BIOS. Your symptoms sure sound like a drive spin-up delay, so, my guess is that there's a hard drive power-down timer that's set in your BIOS, quite separate from the OS's own power-savings settings. I suggest you enter your system BIOS setup screens at boot ( http://google.com/search?q=enter+bios+setup ) and explore the power-saving settings. Newer PCs seem to avoid the intramural fighting that sometimes would plague older PCs when both the hardware and the operating system would vie for control of the power-saving settings; but it's probably still a better idea to let either the hardware OR the OS control things--- not both. In your case, as Windows can handle most power-saving tasks on its own, you might try turning off all hardware-level controls in the BIOS, and let the OS do it all. BTW #1: It actually can be a good thing to let your drive spin down. It saves energy, and wear and tear on the bearings. To avoid annoying delays, I whack the mouse or the keyboard when I first get to the desk. This starts the wake-up process. By the time I get settled in the chair, put my coffee down, and am ready to resume work, the system is awake again, or very nearly so. The spin-up delays are there, but not in any way that's obtrusive. BTW #2: If the drive itself is the problem, it may be wearing out--- wear, or a lubricant failure, can lead to high friction that makes the drive slow to reach normal speed. You might check your drive's "S.M.A.R.T." data ( http://google.com/search?as_q=s%2Em%2Ea%2Er%2Et&as_sitesearch=langa.com ) to ensure that it's still within specs. BTW #3: In the odd chance that it's not specifically a drive issue, there's more information on the APM (Advanced Power management) and ACPI (Advanced Power Control Interface) systems here: http://www.informationweek.com/story/IWK20020927S0028 Click to email this item to a
friend 10) Just For Grins
A little harsh, perhaps... but clever, if taken the right
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